Ar 15 Uppers In Stock

Erowid Library/Bookstore : 'Uppers and Downers'

Multiple Sclerosis – The Bodily Miasma

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Ar 15 Uppers In Stock News:

AR-15, M16, M4, Upper Receiver –

AR-15, M16, M4, Upper Receiver, mil-spec pin sizes, flat top, t-markings. CMT (Continental Machine and Tool) / Stag Arms.

Original Source:

**IN-STOCK** Mega Arms AR-15 MKM Upper | AR15NEWS.COM – Your …

The Mega Arms AR-15 MKM (Mega Key Mod) Uppers are finally shipping to dealers. I know at least one retailer has already received them and sold out within a few …

Original Source:

AR-15, M16, M4, Upper Receiver –

AR-15, M16, M4, Upper Receiver, mil-spec pin sizes, flat top, t-markings. CMT (Continental Machine and Tool) / Stag Arms.

Original Source:

AR-15 Parts: Lower & Upper Receiver Parts, Barrels, Stocks …

Great prices on AR-15 Parts, Accessories, Tools, & More. DPMS, Magpul, Surplus Ammo & Arms, Rock River, Tapco, Olympic, Arms. LPK’s, BCG’s Stocks, grips, barrels …

Original Source:

**IN-STOCK** Mega Arms AR-15 MKM Upper | AR15NEWS.COM – Your …

The Mega Arms AR-15 MKM (Mega Key Mod) Uppers are finally shipping to dealers. I know at least one retailer has already received them and sold out within a few …

Original Source:

Loose Ar15 Upper And Lower Fix

Simple fix for a loose fitting upper and lower on a AR15.


oriolesfan2323 asked Where to find reasonably priced AR-15 uppers?

I have two AR-15 lowers and now I’m searching for uppers. What good websites are there that have reasonably priced uppers in stock?

And got the following answer:

+1 to A1.
For complete uppers, I would try and

Ando asked How comfortable is monsterman grips?

i am planning on buying an ar 15 when im old enough to earn money, and buy one but i live in california (please don’t tell me to move) and i want to be able to reload without using a bullet button, so i did some research and turns out i can have a monsterman grip because it’s not a pistol grip , so i know not as comfortable as pistol grips, but really how bad is it? does your wrist start to hurt eventually?

And got the following answer:

Most people get used to it. MM grips aren’t as cutting edge as they once were, some other options you may want to look at is the U-15 stock :;_ylu=X3oDMTE1M3VhYm45BHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDNwRjb2xvA3NrMQR2dGlkA01TWTAxM18xNzY-/SIG=12k7c482v/EXP=1311492743/**http%3a//

The kydex slip on cover:

or the hammerhead grip:

The Kydex is nice because it slips over your existing pistol grip and is held in place by a couple of screws, you can easily convert it back to your regular grip as desired. It’s about as ergonomic as the monsterman grip.

A lot of shooters I know who went featureless are swearing by the hammerhead grip, they claim the grip feels fairly natural and you have a choice on where you want to mount the buttstock ( either on the buffer tube or the grip itself )

Another option you can consider if you want both a conventional pistol grip and a drop free magazine is to buy yourself a dedicated .22lr upper. You can have all the evil features you want ( other than a high cap magazine unless you bought a ceiner prior to the 2000 ban. )

Ive tried the kydex slip on grip and the hammerhead, of the two, I like the kydex. You tuck your thumb into the recess of the web, while it’s a bit akward at first, it’s workable. It doesn’t hurt your hand or wrist. Neither does the hammerhead, but the grip felt more akward and unnatural of the two.

asked Is there a piece of freeware that will let me put together different types of guns?

For example, I could select the lower receiver of an AR-15, select from a list of compatible upper receivers, then select from flash suppressors, barrel shrouds, stocks, etc, and see what that would like? I’m trying to learn about the various pieces, but just using wikipedia/google image to look at pictures isn’t helping as much as I would like.

Thanks for the help!

And got the following answer:

Contrary to what the first two posters said, there is a website where you can do that.

Double-D asked When purchasing parts for an AR-15 what am I allowed to have shipped directly to my home?

I live in CA (bay area) and I’m trying to buy & build a legal AR-15 but I’m not sure if the lower receiver is the only thing that I need a FFL for or not.

Can I buy the lower assembly parts, bullet button magazine lock, fully assembled upper, and collapsible stock all online and shipped to my house?

Also if any one knows where I can get a lower receiver in the Solano County area that would be helpful.


And got the following answer:

The only FFL part is the stripped lower.
Just make sure all your other parts are in compliance with CA regs. for AR15’s. No bayonet lugs, Flash hider, etc.
Have you seen the stripper-clip fed CA lowers? They allow you to have more of the original features because of their fixed 10 round mag. capacity.

Asa asked Whcih is a cheaper way to own an AR variant rifle?

I was wondering if it would be cheaper to buy an AR-15/M4A1 assembled from a gunshop, or to buy the parts over time and assemble them by hand? If I go with the 2nd option, Recommend a few sites for the parts?

And got the following answer:

It seems like a lot of these questions have been popping up lately with inexperienced people wanting to build an AR.

You will need the following to build a complete AR-15:

Stripped lower
Lower parts kit
Buffer tube
Buffer spring
Castle nut (assuming you are building a carbine)
Gas tube
Stripped upper
Gas block
Bolt carrier group
Charging handle
Delta ring (assuming it isn’t freefloated)

The tools you will need:

Armorer’s wrench
Torque wrench
Roll pin punch set
Vise block for upper
Vise block for lower

This is easily several hundred dollars in tools alone, so you better be willing to build many, many more builds after you purchase these tools to justify the cost. Needless to say, your first build would NOT be a “budget” build. Are you willing to spend that much in parts? Are you willing to spend the time to educate yourself on how to build one and how an AR works before you start this endeavor? If I were you, I would start by buying a cheap AR (look at Spike’s or RRA), learn how it works, and then decide if you really want to build one. Oh, and by “cheap,” I mean $800 before tax.

Mack asked What tools and parts do i need to assemble an ar-15?

Hi, I recently started building my frist ar-15.

I am not sure what tools and parts i need to finish the job.

I have a stripper lower and a stripped upper reciever at the moment, i know they sell parts kits for both. What exactly do I need for parts (minimum). And what exactly do I need for tools?

And got the following answer:

For the lower: lower parts kit and stock kit.

For the upper: forward assist assembly, ejection port cover assembly, barrel, delta ring assembly (if you are using a free float rail with its own nut you will not need the delta ring assembly), front sight base or gas block, gas tube, handguards, taper pins for the front sight base, gas tube roll pin. And of course bolt carrier group and charging handle.

Tools required: vice, AR-15 vice block, armorer’s wrench, torque wrench, assorted punches, a level, headspace gauge and maybe an ejector removal tool. There are other specialized tools, but they are not necessary.

Check out, they’ll tell you what you need and have videos on each step in building an AR-15.

lost asked What’s the best way to find a buyer for a gun?

I mean legally, as in selling through a gun broker?

In case anyone is interested….

AR-15- DPMS 20″ Stainless steel A2 upper 1:8 twist .223, bayonut lug, freefloat (yes, they look like normal handguards but they are freefloated), A2 flashhider. Lower is Superior Arms with A2 stock

And got the following answer:

List it on just like ebay. When the auction ends, the buyer will give you the address of a dealer in his area, and you will ship it via FedEx or UPS to that address.

Make sure you receive payment first, and get insurance on the shipment. Check gunbroker to see how much it’s selling for.

Or you can advertise in your local newspaper/nickel ads and see what response you get.

I might be interested in buying it if the price is right.

go to my blog at and contact me there for more details.

FU asked How to covert full length AR-15 to carbine length?

I was thinking about converting my .223 Colt AR-15 from a full length barrel (20in) to a carbine length barrel (14.5in) to optimize maneuverability and reduce overall weight. Obviously I need a new barrel and handguards, but I assume I also need a new gas system. The gas system I’ve never messed with so any input would be appreciated.

It has a fixed front sight about 6.5in away from the end of the muzzle brake. I see the gas tube begin about 8.5in from the end of the muzzle brake (the front sight being 2in wide). The visible portion of the gas tube is 11.5in from the front sight to the delta ring.

I would just get a new carbine, but they’re all currently sold out and being price gouged anyway.
Just for clarification, I’m not cutting the barrel or any parts. I would order a new barrel and gas system and replace them myself.
I’m currently under Colorado law, so no issues with this.

And got the following answer:

You are very fortunate you posted this here first.

“Carbine” length in the United States is 16 inches. Any shorter and your rifle must be registered under the NFA as an SBR (Short Barrelled Rifle) and now has many of the same legal characteristics as a machine gun.

Not sure if those extra two inches are worth it to you.

When they come back in stock, I recommend picking up an entire 16″ upper, and a “field” headspace gauge, and, using your same bolt and bolt carrier, check to make sure it headspaces correctly (Closes on a live round, doesn’t close on the field gauge), and call it a job well done.

The gas system on the AR is very simple — basically a stainless steel straw, allowing the gas to go from the barrel, through a hole in the barrel (gas port) into the front sight, down the stainless steel straw, into the gas key of the bolt carrier, at which point the bolt BECOMES the “piston” with the expansion chamber being the interior of the bolt carrier, causing the bolt to move forward and unlock, which in turn kicks the bolt carrier rearword, and the action cycles.

There isn’t a whole lot to it.

However, that simplicity hides a whole lot of really close tolerances.

Which is why I’d recommend getting a carbine-length upper and calling it a day. If you’re really into learning about your rifle, you can buy a carbine-length barrel (16″, not 14.5″) with the gas port already drilled, put a sight or gas block on it, and then install the barrel on an upper of your choice, tightening it down, and then carefully installing the gas tube correctly without bending the hell out of it.

This can be very helpful.

Don’t try to actually cut down your barrel — first off, it will damage the chrome lining, and unless you really know what you’re doing, it will be near-impossible for you to recrown it properly, which is one of the keys to mechanical accuracy.

Second, you need to know where to drill the gas port, and if you don’t, it doesn’t take more than a few thousandths off for you to turn your barrel into useless junk.

Third, if your barrel has been profiled for a RIFLE barrel, there may not be enough metal at the gas port point for a carbine once it’s cut down.

So, your EASIEST way to do this would be:

1) Buy a carbine barrel.
2) Learn how to replace your rifle barrel with the carbine barrel:
a) Remove handguards
b) Drive out gas tube pin with a punch
c) Remove gas tube
d) Using barrel nut wrench, unscrew barrel nut
e) Remove barrel from receiver
f) Note presence of barrel nut, front sight tower, and handguard cap on new carbine barrel.
g) Remove the delta ring, spring weld, and snap ring from your old barrel nut, and put them on the new barrel nut prior to barrel installation on receiver. Be sure to line up the hole in the delta ring, the gap in the spring weld, and the gap in the snap ring, so the gas tube will be able to fit through it.
h) Place carbine barrel in receiver, lining up the stud on the barrel extension with the notch in the receiver
i) tighten down the barrel nut to TM spec, between 35 and 85 foot pounds, but most importantly so that one of the “spaces” in the barrel nut “sprocket” line up perfectly with the gas tube hole in the front of the receiver.
j) line up the hole in the delta ring, the gap in the spring weld, and the gap in the snap ring so you can easily insert the gas tube through them and into the receiver.
k) using a carbine-length gas tube, install the gas tube in the receiver, closed end with the holes on the sides towards the muzzle, the open end with the slight machined flange to the interior of the receiver.
l) When you have the gas tube properly aligned, with the one large hole on the side of the closed end facing DOWN into the gas port area, and the two small holes on the sides lining up with the gas tube pin holes on the front sight, gently drive in the gas tube pin to finish the installation of the gas tube.
m) Verify all steps have been taken properly.
n) You have now just rebarrelled an AR-15 with a carbine barrel.
3) Verify your installation has been done correctly.
4) Headspace with field gage and live ammo.
5) Test fire.

All that being said, I accept ABSOLUTELY NO resposibility for your use of these instructions, as I have no way of being able to control the method by which you follow them or my own error or omission which could otherwise be adjusted by my presence or otherwise. They are merely step-by-step guidelines and as such, should be practiced only by people who are reasonably knowledgeable and willing to accept responsibility for their own actions.

OR, you could just buy a completed upper with bolt and bolt carrier and call it a day.

Your decision.